Milongas

I am officially in love! It turns out the Buenos Ayres Club (http://www.buenosayresclub.com/) is just two blocks away from my house - so I decided to check it out last night. Tango classes at 21.00, and the real milonga (a place or event where tango or milonga is danced) with live orchestra at 23.00.

So much fun! About 30 people showed up for the class, a mix of tourists and Argentines. Laura and the male teacher referred to as "El Gato" (the cat) led us through some stretches, basic postures, walking with the tango attitude, and some basic steps, which we practiced alone or in couples, changing partner with every exercise.

While waiting for the doors to open, I met Lucas, Porteno who speaks a very good French! We were joined by his three colleagues for the milonga, which totally filled up with local tango aficionados. Beautiful thirty- and fourtysomething people, some dressed up, others casually hip, difficult to keep our eyes of the sensual but strictly professional body communication between the pairs, so full of tension and unfulfilled attraction. And then the live music, performed by the 10-headed La Orquesta Tipica El Afronte, wauw! We quickly spotted our favourite figures on the dance floor: Crocodile Dundee without the hat; the girl with the superb red-heeled tango shoes; Woody Allen in Crocs; and then, the main cause of animation, laughter and entertainment at our table: the lambada girl, moving her hips way too much for a classical tango that I decided that she is officially inventing a new dance - the tangada. The author of this piece was also asked a couple of times on the dancefloor, and since according to etiquette you can't really refuse, I managed to stammer a couple of words to indicate that I am really really really a beginner. Being led over the dancefloor is pure magic! The Dj took over at the end, and was acclaimed for the typical Folklore songs from the North which stirred a type of inline dancing from the locals, known as Chacarera. What a beautiful night! I am officially in love with tango!

Que?!?

Good news! I am no longer working all by myself at the office! And even though Luciana only joined me last week, it feels as if we've known each other for a long time!

A feated journalist, published by several national newspapers and magazines, smart and witty, and with a good sense of social involvement, what a pleasure to work with! Needless to say that my Spanish is finally also starting to improve now.

Today, we decided to no longer communicate after 5.30 pm, because for some reason, we end up having parallel conversations in castellano. A snapshot of today's conversation, around 5.30 pm indeed:
Rose: "So, where are we meeting Javier for lunch on Wednesday?"
Lu: "He only has one hour for lunch."
Rose: "I thought we agreed to meet at 1.30 pm already?"

Que!?! No entiendo!
Welcome Lu!!!

Trojan Horse

Sorry, dit kon ik niet laten...
Met dank aan Heloise voor de continue stroom jokes en twijfelachtige humor ;-)

Home

This is the official start of my new life in Buenos Aires. As I came HOME twice over the weekend.

First, on a physical level, how nice to finally have a place I can call home. My suitcases finally unpacked. A working kitchen. The old pinewood floors cracking under my feet, the six meter high arched ceilings and the antique furniture taking me back into time. I love every inch of this place, and it looks like there is a good vibe in the community living in this Pasaje, as I found out on my first night. Ovidio, the landlord, came by with a set of extra keys, and promptly invited me over to his best friends in the Pasaje, taking a bottle of red along with us. I found three French guys playing cards (stronten!), in the one apartment which includes a turret as extra feature, so I guess that this is the official castle in the block.

Second, how nice to come home to myself. I spent this first long weekend in Canuelas, on an advanced meditation course in silence organized by the Art of Living. Blissful, peaceful, relaxed, I am sporting the biggest smile I've ever had on my face, one that comes from within. I was in desperate need of this, as the stress of the move and all that comes with it was slowly taking the best of me. I started having restless nights, worrying, stressing, and the fact that I was going through all this by myself certainly did not make it easier (hint: I really welcome your emails and calls ;-)). So, this is a new and fresh beginning: I'm ready for the big challenge ahead, of making our first Latin America chapter a big success, and of building a happy life for myself here.

Anyway, as promised, here are some pictures of my castle, enjoy! Oh yes, there is one added surprise in my castillo, which you can't see on the pictures, and which is making me soooooo happy! If you can guess what it is, you get priority on the visitors list ;-)

https://picasaweb.google.com/rose.vervenne/ElCastillo?authkey=Gv1sRgCOKxyNXv7Nq4zQE#

And the winner is...

Experience should have thought me that for every bad day, two good days would typically follow! And yet my mind seems prone to forget these things.

Now, Friday wasn't exactly the best day in my life. It started when I found out after a long email correspondence that none of my bank cards, credit or debit, could be accepted to pay for the meditation course that I wanted to follow next weekend. International cards don't seem to be Argentina's favourite fare. So I find out that Banco Frances, which has a branch in front of the office, changes traveller cheques without charging a commission - a welcome alternative to the ATM withdrawals which cost me eight USD for every transaction, and off course limit the amount one can withdraw in one day, making sure that I need to use this service more than I would like to in this efectivo (cash)-prone economy. Anyway, cash in hand, I venture to find one of the "Rapipago" branches, which is the only alternative to pay for the course. While my cash is certainly as good as everyone else's, the fact that I don't have a local DNI or id-number seems to be yet another stumbling block. For 20 minutes, I try to come up with alternatives with the very friendly girl assisting me, like using a fictional DNI, or hers, but then how will the course be able to identify me as the person who paid the course? So we leave it to this and I return to the office only to find out that the bank transfer for the guarantee and broker fees for the apartment I'm supposed to move into on Tuesday, hasn't happened! The bank in Canada simply forgot to process the wire transfers. Hence follows a long string of emails with my colleagues in Canada to get proof of payments, with the broker, the landlord, while in parallel looking for a plan B (extending my stay in the studio, offering to use one of my traveler cheques as a guarantee to the landlord). And all of this on a day which was full of bureaucratic procedures to open a company bank account, establish a legal entity, not exactly my cup of tea.

It's seven p.m. by the time I leave the office. I may be in Buenos Aires, but I'm just too exhausted to even think about doing something fun. So I spend the evening like most of the others, watching the endless run of American series on TV, a pizza as comfort food this time.

Late Friday night, the first sunray of the day finally comes through. An email from the landlord who is somewhere between Brazil and Uruguay, acknowledging my efforts and telling me not to worry - "just come over on Tuesday, I'll get the money whenever it gets in my account." Ouf (sigh), because honestly, it's been four weeks now since I arrived, and I can't bear yet another week without unpacking and living as I do now in my studio. Then on Saturday, lunch with Eleonora in her usual hangout, this time we are joined by her daugher Augustina. Great company, and immediate click with Augustina, who seems to share the same passion for independent traveling (she's going to Prague and Berlin in April!), music, old buildings with a soul, and checking out cool places. This morning, I treat myself to a nice breakfast at the patio of Como en Casa, and on my way back I bump into an Express Carrefour (yes, open on a Sunday!), where I pack enough fruits (mango!) and vegetables (rucula! avocado!) for 2 days, and two Stella's which will keep me company during tonight's Oscar celebration show. So, enough positive energy to catch up on some work right now, with two cold beers waiting for me later tonight!

Just another Friday afternoon at the office

Friday afternoon, yet another week gone by. Alone in my corner office on the 4th floor. Cappuccino from the vending machine. The sun is shining, but it's cold inside. Moment of loneliness, should I go to the movies tonight, again by myself? Sign up for the meditation class next week over the carnival holidays? Start tango classes in the Confiteria Ideal? I wish I knew more people here...

Luckily, my thoughts are interrupted by loud drumming from outside. There's always something happening on the streets in the centro. Another protest march. Even though I'm not sure what this small group is marching for, I welcome the distraction. Maybe I should just go home early tonight...

Revolución de las Papas Fritas

Today Belgium has beaten Iraq's world record of 249 days without a government! This item made it even to one of the Argentinean newspapers. After the Jasmin Revolution in Tunisia, we have the "Frietrevolutie" in Belgium, or the "Revolución de las Papas Fritas". Magritte may be dead, but Belgium is still the universal centre of surrealism...

(cartoon (c) Stift)